8/22 - Utah Scenic Byway 12 and Capital Reef National Park (1)

Today I got up early and again packed my car with luggage. According to the plan, I shall take Utah Scenic Byway 12, cut through the Capital Reef National Park, and arrive at Green River, Utah. Today I had more flexibility, or uncertainty, depends on how you look at it, as I did not have a hotel booked for the night in advance. From this day on my schedule was open and subject to changes.

When I set up my trip plan, the objective of the day was merely moving from the West side of Utah to the East side. According to the mileage I won't have much time for the Capital Reef NP, and I didn't put too much expectation on the scenic drive. I still remembered my experience with the famous California Scenic Highway 1 (the Pacific Coast highway). I went on a 2-day trip from LA to San Francisco the first winter vacation, and after finished the drive, the first question came up in my mind was "Where is the scenery? Is this the scenic drive that people all talk about?" It was not bad after all, but talking about beautify coastal scenic drive, the East Coast of Taiwan has no match as far as I have seen. After that experience, I became more skeptical about the famous scenic drives.

However I did not know it would turn out to be one of the best driving experience I ever had when I started the day.

Utah Scenic Byway 12

On the map, Utah Scenic Byway 12 starts from a junction off US-89 heading toward Bryce Canyon, and ends at Torrey, UT just before the Capital Reef NP. It is a perfect match to where I was heading to, so I chose to travel the full length of the road.

The itinerary of the day started out by following the same route I took to visit the Bryce Canyon yesterday. Instead of turning into Bryce, I continued on Byway 12, and as I traveled further, there were less sign of human habitation. I left the civilization behind and headed into the wilderness for every additional mile I drove.

The view here is very different from what I was familiar with in my life. I lived mostly in cities where the eyesight is always limited by man-made objects. But down here, nothing is between me and the horizon, in almost all directions. Surrounded by the openness, I felt that some invisible shackle deep in my soul lifted, and I felt happy basically for no reason. I simply enjoyed the view and the drive all along the way.

It is difficult to describe the view I saw on this day. All I can say is that the languages are not enough to describe it. Even photography falls short to fully capture the beauty of the scene. In my opinion, all man-made objects are no compare to the great openness out here provided by the mother nature. From time to time, tears almost dropped out from my eyes due to the shock and satisfaction. Yes, it is that good. You have to be here yourself to appreciate that.

There were really few travelers on this route, so most of the time I was driving all by myself across the open field. There were lots of viewpoint providing endless view into the wilderness. There is nothing special out there yet the view is special. I stood at the viewpoints and felt happy each time that I had made the decision to come this way. Although I had to sit in the limited space of my Toyota Corolla most of the time, I didn't feel restricted confined because the view is as wide as the eyes could see. The thin air on the plateau and the sunny sky helped the visibility, and this was a very enjoyable drive all the way.

I will show you some pictures here, but let me remind you again the photos are not the best way to convey what I shocked me so deeply that day. You have to be there to confirm what I described above.

Red Canyon (at the west end of the Utah Byway 12)

Driving through a tunnel at Red Canyon

The road cuts through an opening between two hills

Heading East on Utah Byway 12 with open view in front of the car

Half way on the road I passed by the visitor center of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. I took just a quick in the visitor center without further exploration of the place. However, one quote on the wall in the visitor enter hit into my heart. Well said, Mr. Williams.

I drove further East from the visitor center the view is even better. Every turn provides a potential of surprise. I remember I kept shouting "Wow!" as if I was riding a roller-coaster. The view on this segment of Byway 12 is simply spectacular, perhaps the best I have seen since entering US. Taiwan is a small, mountainous island. Therefore I am familiar with views of mountains or seashores, but have little experience with open views on a plateau. This route fit nicely in the void, provided what I considered as an eye-opening experience for me, and this is one of the major reasons people enjoy traveling.

Looking down from a vista point, the road cuts through the barren land like a snake. A sense of loneliness arose while I stood here. I must travel this lonely road to reach the destination.

Heading down into the valley I just saw above.

A place called Boynton Overlook. Another amazing view.

Finally I met someone on the road so I could ask them to take a picture for me.

Another view.... Forget the name of the place.

A view featured a big basin underneath. On a board at this point, it says the area I could see is as large as the state Connecticut or the European country Luxembourg!

Another view... There are so many nice viewpoints that I took much longer time to drive through the Byway 12 than I expected.

A nice peek through the passenger side window into a basin.

A high-rising cliff ahead.

Finally I arrived at the junction of Utah 12 and Utah 24. I took a break and had a late lunch at the Subway at the intersection. Looking back at the junction into Byway 12, I realized I might have just had the best driving experience so far in my life. It was unlike any place I had been. With a high spirit, I continued my day, driving on Utah 24 into the Capital Reef National Park.

This intersection marks the East end of Utah Byway 12.